I’ve been making soap for a few years, but have shied away from writing a post on how to make soap because I do not ever make anything more than the most basic recipe.
My main reason for soap making is that I am sensitive to most scents in soaps, including some essential oils. And a scent-free soap like Ivory dries my skin because they remove the glycerine from it, and it’s made from tallow from factory-farmed cows. No thank you.
I’m making soap today and I thought, “if I can do this, anyone can do it.” And so I’m sharing, not because I’m advanced in the art of soap making, but to encourage you to give it a try.
Supplies You’ll Need to Make Soap
Seriously, the most difficult part of soap making is finding the ingredients, especially the lye. Grocery stores used to sell it, but not anymore – at least not in my area. So I purchase everything in bulk, online. Most items that you will need for soap making can be found here: Soap Making Supplies
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It’s recommended that your equipment be used only for soap making. Most of it can be picked up inexpensively at yard sales or thrift shops. You’ll need:
- a scale to weigh ingredients
- a stainless steel stock pot
- a heat proof glass pitcher for mixing and pouring the lye
- plastic containers for holding oil while it’s being weighed – I use 32 oz plastic yogurt containers
- 2 large plastic or wooden spoons – one for stirring the lye and one for the oils
- a spatula
- 2 thermometers – one for the lye and one for the oil
- soap mold – this can be as simple as a shoe box lined with plastic or parchment paper, a plastic tray with sides, or a plastic shoe box
- rubber gloves – wear these the entire time
- cardboard to fit over the molds
- a blanket to insulate the cooling soap
Soap Making Ingredients
- distilled water, room temperature
- lye (recommended brands include Red Crown, ComStar, and Essential Depot)
- oils, such as olive, palm, coconut, castor, wheat germ, cocoa butter, tallow, and jojoba
Each of the different oils has a different property – some are added as moisturizers (castor, wheat germ, cocoa butter, jojoba) and some help to create a rich lather (coconut and palm).
Basic Soap Making Method
The method is simple, although precautions always need to be taken. Remember, lye is a poison, and can cause serious burns to your skin. Read my post Is Lye Soap Safe?
The basic method is to add lye to water, and then to add this mixture to the oils. The lye mixture and the oil mixture must each be at the same temperature, generally 100 degrees, although this varies with the recipe.
So let me expand on this. To make a basic recipe of soap, weigh the following ingredients (remember, these measurements are by weight, not by liquid ounces):
- 14 oz room temperature distilled water
- approx. 6 oz lye (For exact amount, see this lye calculator where you enter the other ingredients and the amount of lye needed will be given)
- 40 oz oils (for example – 20 oz olive oil, 10 oz coconut oil, 8 oz palm oil, 2 oz wheat germ oil)
- about 1 oz of essential oils, if you choose to use
Fill your sink with cold water and some ice to use as a water bath to cool the lye mixture.
Wearing your rubber gloves, place the water into your pitcher and slowly stir in the lye. I always do this outdoors since even the fumes are toxic. Stir slowly until dissolved. The temperature will rise very quickly to 220 degrees or so. Now place the pitcher into the cold water bath in your sink and begin to take its temperature. The goal is 100 degrees.
Place the oils into your pot and heat at a low temperature trying to reach 100 degrees. This will happen quickly. You now want to get both the lye and the oil to 100 degrees at the same time. Use the ice water bath to accomplish this.
When both the lye and the oils are at 100 degrees, pour the lye mixture into the oil mixture very slowly. Continue stirring until the mixture reaches a point called “trace”. The soap is at trace when your stirring causes lines in the mixture that stay in place or when a drizzle of the soap mixture retains it shape on the surface of the soap.
Trace can take up to 2 hours, but usually occurs within a half hour. If it is taking over 15 minutes, you may take breaks in stirring – stir for 10 minutes or so and rest for 10 minutes or so. If you are adding essential oils, now is the time to do so.
At trace, pour your soap into prepared molds. Cover with cardboard and then wrap in a blanket to hold the heat. You want your soap to cool slowly.
You may remove the blanket after the first day, but the soap itself may take several days to harden. When it feels solid, you may cut the soap into bars and un-mold it. The soap is still very alkaline and should not be used until it has cured for 2 – 4 weeks.
This is as far as I have taken soap making, but there is so much more that can be done. As I mentioned, essential oils may be added to the recipe, but because the uncured soap is so alkaline it can destroy some of the aroma you are after.
It is better to mill your soap if you are looking to add scent. I’m not experienced in this, but after curing, the soap is grated, remelted and then the essential oils are added. Fine soap makers mill their soap as many as 7 times! Milled soap also lasts longer. Other ingredients, such as oats, may be added as well. Another way to pretty up your soap is to purchase or be creative in making decorative molds.
We’ve covered the basics of soap making, but you’ll need some specific recipes. For that look below under Other Posts You’ll Love.
Recommended Reading:
Simple Natural Soapmaking by Jan Berry.
The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners by Kelly Cable.
Other Posts You’ll Love
Homemade Candy Cane Soap with All Natural Ingredients
How to Make Herb-Infused Homemade Soap
Thank you for visiting Learning And Yearning. May "the LORD bless you and keep you; the LORD make his face shine upon you and be gracious to you; the LORD turn his face toward you and give you peace." Num 6:24-26
Kara says
I will definitely be trying this at some point. Thanks for posting!
susanv says
Let me know if I can help, Kara.
Sarah Patterson says
I’ve tried making soap but sometimes it cools down too quickly and won’t trace how do I salvage this batch??
Susan Vinskofski says
This trouble-shooting chart may help: http://www.millennium-ark.net/News_Files/Soap/Tips_Trouble.html.
Simply Essential UK says
As a non soapmaker but maker and seller of other beauty products I keep meaning to try soapmaking and you make it look so easy – I think I need to have a go!
susanv says
I agree! With what you are already doing, this is a natural for you.
Erin D. says
Thanks for posting this! I have been meaning to try soaps for several years, and even went so far as to buy All The Stuff – but I’ve kept chickening out! It just seemed so complicated…
Perhaps this will give me the needed impetus to get going on it. 🙂
susanv says
My dear Erin, you have accomplished the hard part – buying the ingredients. This is almost as easy as making yogurt. You are already a hero to me, so I know you can do this!!!!!
Rosalyn says
I love the idea of soap making but am pretty nervous about the lye. Trying to figure out where I would store it safely out of reach of our little ones and figuring out a time when they wouldn’t be around to do it seems a bit tricky–it might be a goal that waits a few years until they’re bigger and I feel a bit braver! But I think it would be so lovely to take the soap out of the molds and know that you made it yourself. 🙂
susanv says
Rosalyn! Yeah, you definitely do not want to do this with small children around. I just took yesterday’s batch out of the molds and cut them up. Sloppy! Funny, I like to be “artsy” about a lot of things, but soap making isn’t one of them.
Andy says
Listing 6 ounces of lye to 40 ounces of ‘oils’ is a recipe for disaster. Different oils and fats require different amounts of lye. Use a lye calculator to get an accurate measurement.
susanv says
Thank you. I’ve never had a problem, but this is good to know. I’ve added that info to the post.
Stevie says
We make soap ’cause we need it, too. So no fancy steps for us. I prefer hot process so it’s ready immediately, though. We do get disappointed b/c most of the scent fades away but I am waaaaaay too lazy for milling soap. we don’t even have molds or a soap box, but just use Pringles cans. Nice round soaps and yummy chips to eat first 🙂 Stevie@ruffledfeathersandspilledmilk.com
susanv says
Hi Stevie! Can you explain hot process?
annie @ montanasolarcreations says
Thank you for a great post! I’ve been wanting to make our own soap and this looks really easy. I pinned it 🙂
De-anna says
thanks for your instructions. I am planning to start making my own soap in the near future. These are super easy to follow.
Joyce says
I am new to making homemade beauty products and have been viewing articles, blogs, and videos on this topic. You did a great job of explaining it, stopping by from the Wildcrafting Wednesday blog hop, pinning.
Melissa says
An awesome website for supplies is Brambleberry.com. They were a Godsend to me. And they have video tutorials.
Ranch Mama says
Thank you for sharing this! I have the same skin problems and my little one I wrote about today has too. I have often thought about making my own but just haven’t done it yet.
Renae says
I do not make soap. I do not make soap. …well, perhaps I’ll make soap. good on ya.
Ellie says
What an interesting post – I made soap many years ago but have never done it since.
After reading this I could really get into it again :))
Nancy says
I’m back in a soapmaking phase and enjoy trying new natural ingredients from the garden. It is rather addictive. 🙂
Teresa says
I love my homemade soaps. I’ve found some additives that are really good for those sensative skins by adding herbs like calendula, oatmeal or honey.
Mariel says
I would love to try making my own soap. Thanks for this! I’ve had fun looking over your blog. I would love to have you come share ‘Your Great Idea’ in my link party…it’s hosted on Saturdays, but you can still enter today. I hope to see you there! http://www.oneshetwoshe.com/2012/09/hello-weekend-50-mikarose-giveaway.html
Paula-Riverton Housewives says
Wow…you make it look easy enough that I might try it! Thanks for sharing! We’d love for you to link this up at our party…http://housewivesofriverton.blogspot.com/2012/09/riverton-housewives-round-up-32.html
Laurie says
Congratulations – you are one of this week’s featured posts on Wildcrafting Wednesday – http://www.commonsensehome.com/joe-pye-weed/
I made soap like this with a friend last year, and your instructions are nicely done.
Emily McGee says
Found you through TALU, and I’m glad I did. My husband and I like making things from scratch, but we’ve never tried soap. (We usually stick to edibles). Soap would be a great gift though, so I’ll have to try your recipe!
Chris at Hye Thyme Cafe says
Popping in through the #TALU. Have to say … after watching the lye scene in The Fight Club, I don’t envy you for having to deal with lye. I’d be nervous about that. Had to chuckle since the process made me thinking about making candy – waiting for it to trace is like waiting for something to come to a soft-ball stage. Then wrapping it and putting it away is just what I do when making yogurt LOL. Maybe I can handle this after all! 😉
Debbie - Wrinkled Mommy says
So awesome! I would love to try that sometime.
I’m from TALU
Kiril Kundurazieff says
Hello! Came over from the TALU….and now I wanna go take a bath! 😀
Seriously, interesting post, even more interesting photos! 😀
doterra essential oils says
Good post. I learn something totally new and challenging on websites
I stumbleupon everyday. It will always be helpful to read through articles from
other writers and practice something from their sites.
http://tinyurl.com/movidring30718 says
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Pamela @ TraditionalFNH says
Just popped in here from PRM.
Susan this is a very good tutorial for everyone. I have yet to give soap a try. I have several friends that make it and 2 of them sell their bars. Do you happen to use your bars to wash your hair also?
Susan says
Hi, Pamela! Funny you should ask since I just published a post on shampoo bars I have recently made: https://learningandyearning.com/DIY-Shampoo-Bars#. But even before I made these, I was using my soap to wash my hair.
Jane says
Hi there, just a question about your stirring to bring to trace. Is there a reason you don’t use a stick blender? I’ve done several batches of CP soap and a stick blender brings it to trace within minutes.
That being said, my last 2 batches have failed – absolutely no idea why!! Both times the soap didn’t set – wound up being like play dough!! Very frustrating!! I know I have the quantities right – 450ml water, 172g lye, 1000g water, 250g coconut oil. I suspect the first failure could have been due to a false trace, but i was very careful with the second batch and still failed. The very first time I made that recipe it was a resounding success, and I can;t work out what i’ve done wrong. Any tips would be appreciated.
Susan says
Hi Jane, the only reason that I don’t use a stick blender is because I don’t have one. 🙂
I would say to run your ingredients through a lye calculator like the one I link to in my post. You have water listed twice in your ingredients, and you have more lye listed than oil, so that’s definitely not correct. I hope you can figure it out!
Jane says
Oops I meant 1000g olive oil!!
I’ve done the lye calculator and it’s about 4.5 – 5% which is OK. Is it possible to be keeping it too hot when its in the moulds? I remember reading of others having to lift the blanket to let warmth out, but I’m not sure of the signs you would need to do that. I wonder if its overcooked./oversaponified?
Thanks for your response anyway Susan 🙂
Susan says
Jane, am I correct that you are using a stick blender? I did some reading to see if I could figure out your problem. I read this, “When using a stick blender, it’s important to blend in short bursts, punctuated by some stirring with the blender turned off. This will help you determine when a true trace has occurred and not be fooled when thickening is simply caused by the extreme whipping process of the blender”.
Remember, you can always remelt a failed batch of soap.
Hazel says
100 degrees here is F or C? Thank you
Susan says
100 degrees F.
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tim sustersic says
if you are having trouble finding lye, go to a plumbing supply-house like famous supply, most wont sell to homeowners but if you know someone in the trades; ie electrician,plumber,hvac, if they wont sell to you they will to them. what you are looking for is a product called mulekick, but there are others, it is for opening drains. sodium hydroxide NOT hydrochloric acid or any acid. hope this helps.
Susan Vinskofski says
Yes, thank you, Tim!
Lorie says
Always love reading your blog posts, Susan! I learn something new each time on my journey to a more natural lifestyle! Thank you!
Susan Vinskofski says
Thank you, Lorie. You’re always so supportive!!!
Robbie says
Susan do you weigh the essential oils like the rest of the ingredients? BTW thanks so much for your info and all the sharing.
Susan Vinskofski says
You’re so welcome! I don’t weigh the essential oils. Since they are added at trace they don’t affect saponification so it precision isn’t as necessary. I just judge based on the amount listed on the label of the EO bottle.
Robbie says
Thanks for your quick response. I have another question, I don’t have any wheat germ oil, can you tell me what would be a good substitute?
Susan Vinskofski says
You can leave out the wheat germ oil, but absolutely run all the ingredients you do use through a lye calculator like this one so that you get the lye amount correct: http://www.soapguild.org/lye-calc.php
Katrina says
DO NOT put vinegar on your skin if you get lye on you, the vinegar will react with the lye and increase your burn, run the area under cold water for at least 15 mins and then call your doctor or poison control. On another note as long as your protecting yourself correctly you shouldn’t have a problem.
Love this recipe thank you for posting it
Jim says
I have been using a basic soap recipe using olive and coconut oil and milk for more than 4 years now. I totally reacted to all commercial soaps so had to make my own. Haven’t had a soap related skin issue since due to no reactors in the soap
Susan Vinskofski says
It’s so sad that something as simple as soap is so full of irritants, isn’t it? So glad you are making your own.