When I look at weeds, do you know what I see? I see plants that have removed minerals from the soil in which they were growing. And because of that, I want to compost them so that those nutrients can be returned to my garden soil. But composting weeds presents some challenges. Here’s how to compost them the safe way.
The Concerns with Composting Weeds
Composting weeds incorrectly can create the risk of having those weeds spread when the compost is applied to your garden.
The main parts of the plant to cause concern are the weed’s seeds, and its roots. Either can potentially be spread through your compost pile and wreak havoc in your garden later on. In addition, there are weeds, such as ground ivy, that can root from any part of the plant. These are especially easy to spread.
First Step: Preventing Weeds From Growing in the First Place
Preventing weeds from taking over your garden is the first step to a weed-free garden. Even in the best of cases, though, a few weeds get through and can be composted.
The three strategies that I use to prevent weeds are no-dig gardening, never stepping on my garden beds, and mulching.
No Dig Gardening
It is possible to garden without ever having to dig. The best way to do this is to build a raised bed and fill the bed lasagna-style. A lasagna garden is built by layering organic materials which eventually decompose into wonderful garden soil.
Digging brings weed seeds to the surface, causing them to sprout. So not only does no-dig gardening save me from having to spend time and effort digging, it helps to keep weeds down in my garden.
I have over 20 garden beds, and all but two of them have been built in the lasagna garden style. Some of them are contained in raised beds, but a few of them are not.
Those in the raised beds get far fewer weeds for several reasons. The boundary created by the raised beds keeps my feet (and those of visitors) on the path and out of the garden. Which brings me to my next strategy – not stepping on my garden soil.
Why Stepping on Your Garden is a Bad Idea
The roots of garden plants love loose soil which allows their roots to go deep for water and nutrients. Stepping on soil compacts it, reducing the space available in the soil for air and water.
In addition, many weeds love compacted soil. Our garden areas that are not contained in raised beds tend to get weeds along the edges where we walk. Since the paths are not always clearly defined, we tend to step into the beds near those edges, compacting the soil. Weeds always grow here.
Mulching Keeps Weeds Down
Mulching has so many benefits in a garden. It keeps the soil from drying out, reducing watering, and as it decomposes it helps to build healthy soil.
A 2 – 3″ layer of mulch does a great job of keeping weeds at bay by blocking the sunlight that the weeds need to sprout. We use both hay and wood chips as mulch in our garden.
What to Do with the Weeds that Do Sprout in the Garden
How to Compost Weeds the Proper Way
I like to call compost “black gold”. It is made up of decomposing organic matter which improves your soil, and keeps kitchen scraps and yard debris out of landfills.
All sorts of items are compostable from grass clippings and leaves, to egg shells and natural fibers. Find a list of items you can compost here. And yes, even weeds are compostable if you take a few precautions.
1.) First, make sure that the weeds you wish to compost haven’t gone to seed. Unless your compost heats up to 140°F, those seeds will survive and spread in your garden. My style of composting can be fairly passive; it just doesn’t get turned as often as I’d like. Therefore, I don’t add any weeds to my compost pile that have gone to seed because I know that it won’t always heat up to 140°F.
2.) If you do wish to compost weeds that have gone to seed, be sure to hot compost your weeds. That means that your compost pile must heat up to 140°F to kill any weed seeds. This temperature should be maintained for several weeks, turning the pile every time it goes below this temperature, which is generally every 4 – 5 days.
3.) An easier method for me to take care of weeds with seeds, or with roots attached, is to ferment them in water. Place the weeds in a 5 gallon pail, cover with water, and allow them to rot and ferment for several weeks before adding to your compost pile. The water can be added to the pile, too, or use it fertilize your plants. Keep in mind that this can get pretty smelly.
4.) Another strategy is to dry your weeds in the sun. This won’t kill seeds, but is good for weeds with roots still attached which could potentially take root in your compost pile. When you are certain that no life is left in the roots, the weeds may be composted.
5.) Lastly, you can place your weeds in a black plastic bag and allow this to heat up in direct sunlight for about a week. I prefer not to use plastic in my garden, so I’ve not used this strategy too often.
Throwing weeds in the landfill means that you are throwing precious nutrients away. Instead, learn to compost them the proper way so that those nutrients can be returned to your garden soil.
To learn how to build a garden that builds healthy soil, be sure to check out my eBook The Art of Gardening: Building Your Soil.
You really can become a better gardener, and you really can grow healthy, nourishing produce. It’s all about the soil! Click here to learn more.
Thank you for visiting Learning And Yearning. May "the LORD bless you and keep you; the LORD make his face shine upon you and be gracious to you; the LORD turn his face toward you and give you peace." Num 6:24-26
Benny Voncannon says
Fire Ants if only somebody could tell me a way to combat fire ants. They are so bad here and of course they love rich lose garden soil.
Kathy B. says
I agree-they are my nemesis too, and the only thing I use a chemical for & it’s spot treatment. I get it at the ‘U-Kill-Em’ store and it’s a powder called Surrender. It’s immediate & doesn’t take much -even for a huge mound. I’ve used it around my yard (I have an acre) with my plants for butterflies & Hummers with no issues. But luckily the mounds haven’t been too close to my vines, yet.
Mario says
Ants avoid lime. Just dust them with lime.
Susan Vinskofski says
In Good Bugs, Bad Bugs https://amzn.to/2OFCoym, the author suggests two things. One, attract their predator – spiders. And two, use spinosad, a biological insecticide with low toxicity to beneficials.
Cannon says
Thank you for the advice I have been considering composting!
Susan Vinskofski says
You’re welcome!